Petzl Ange S
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Availability: NZ stock Dispatch: 5-7 working days
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Petzl Ange S - Grey / Small is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
Petzl Ange S
Description
Description
Ultra-lightweight and compact carabiner featuring MonoFil gate technology
The Ange S carabiner combines the advantages of both traditional solid and classic wire gate carabiners. Petzl’s MonoFil technology, paired with an H-shaped cross-section, ensures an exceptionally lightweight design of just 28 grams while maintaining an optimal strength-to-weight ratio. Its nose shape and Keylock system minimise the risk of snagging during clipping and unclipping. This carabiner is particularly well-suited for mountaineering and multi-pitch alpine climbs, where every gram makes a difference.
Features
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Ultra-lightweight and compact:
- Weighing only 28 g, this compact carabiner is an excellent choice for mountaineering and multi-pitch climbing.
- The H-shaped cross-section enhances the carabiner’s size efficiency and maximises its strength-to-weight ratio.
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Effortless clipping and unclipping:
- The MonoFil gate delivers a smooth opening and closing action while offering significantly greater durability than conventional wire gate carabiners; the inset wire gate reduces friction against rock surfaces.
- The Keylock system is designed to prevent snagging on gear loops, pitons, ropes, or webbing.
- A hole in the nose of the carabiner allows for the removal of ice, snow, or dirt.
- The flat spine ensures a stable grip when holding the carabiner or pinch clipping.
- A wide contact surface with the rope and bolt hanger promotes smoother rope glide while reducing wear on the carabiner.
- Available in two colours: light grey or orange.
Specifications
| Material(s) | Aluminum |
| Certification(s) | CE EN 12275 type B, UIAA, UKCA |
| Dimensions | 53x85 mm |
| Weight | 28 g |
| Major axis strength | 20 kN |
| Minor axis strength | 7 kN |
| Open gate strength | 9 kN |
| Gate opening | 23 mm |
| Inner Pack Count | 1 |
Technology
Declaration Of Conformity
Tips for maintaining your equipment
Inspection
PPE inspection procedure
PPE checklist
Video
Technical Content
CARABINER BASICS
The carabiner is an essential link in any vertical equipment kit. It is very strong when used correctly, but can break or come open if misused. Understanding the strengths and weaknesses of carabiners allows the user to make the most suitable choice for each application.
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WARNINGS
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A carabiner is designed to be loaded on the major axis, with the gate closed and the sleeve locked. Only the strength rating for the major axis with gate closed is suitable for the loads sustained by a carabiner in vertical activities. Loading a carabiner in any other way can be dangerous. |
Examples of dangerous carabiner loading
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The risks associated with incorrect loading can be reduced:
For each use:
Follow the instructions presented in your carabiners' Instructions for Use |
Balance between a carabiner's ease of opening and security of locking
A secure lock reduces the probability of accidental opening in use.
The most secure lock is that of a quick link tightened with a tool, with a near zero probability of accidental opening. But such a lock does not make for efficient operation in the field.
Ease of opening (ergonomics) enables quick and efficient connection and disconnection. In certain situations, this contributes as much to user safety as the security of the lock.
This balance must be finely tuned: the user must choose what is suitable for each type of use. The other parts of this document give details, based on the application, to aid the user in this choice.
| SECURITY (-) | SECURITY (+) | |
| ERGONOMICS (+) | ERGONOMICS (-) |
EXAMPLES OF DANGEROUS CARABINER LOADING.
A carabiner is strongest when loaded on the major axis, with the gate closed and the sleeve locked. Loading a carabiner in any other way can be dangerous.
Load position
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Barring exceptional circumstances, a carabiner is designed to be loaded on the major axis. Only the strength rating for the major axis with gate closed is suitable for the loads sustained by a carabiner in vertical activities. Loading on any axis other than the major axis, and any poor positioning, will result in reduced strength. |
THE PRIMARY RISKS
Risk of Unclipping |
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Examples Examples |
The gate can come open if:
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Risk of Carabiner Breakage Note: Vertical practices involving a single user who is properly equipped and protected from falls rarely generate enough force to break a carabiner. However, any fall can produce an impact force that approaches the breaking strength of a poorly positioned carabiner. |
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Examples |
Examples |
Examples |
Examples |
Examples |
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Examples |
Examples |
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Examples of Risk Situations in the Field
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1. OPENING OF THE GATE, OPEN GATE LOADING |
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Opening of the gate > Release of the load/person |
Open gate loading > Risk of carabiner breakage |
| A carabiner with the gate open is weak: only 30 % of the major axis strength (e.g. 7 kN instead of 27 kN on the major axis for the Am’D). |
| 2. MINOR AXIS LOADING |
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A carabiner loaded on the minor axis is weak: only 35 % of the major axis strength (e.g. 8 kN instead of 27 kN on the major axis for the Am’D). |
| 3. MULTIDIRECTIONAL LOADING |
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The strength loss in a multidirectional load depends on the angle between the axes of loading. |
| 4. LOADING OVER AN EDGE |
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A carabiner loaded over an edge is weak: only 30 % of the major axis strength (e.g. 6 kN instead of 23 kN on the major axis for the SPIRIT SL). This value varies greatly depending on the position of the edge (in the middle of the gate or closer to the nose...). |
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5. OVERLOADED CARABINER The major axis strength of a carabiner is optimal when the load is closest to the spine side of the frame. If the load shifts to the gate side, the strength is reduced. |
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Strength loss is most pronounced with a pear-shaped carabiner, as the nose is rather far from the spine side of the frame. Their shape also contributes to poor positioning of the load. A carabiner loaded on the gate side is weak: only 30 % of the major axis strength (e.g. 7 kN instead of 27 kN on the major axis for the WILLIAM). |
| 6. VARIOUS CANTILEVER LOADS |
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The different cantilever positions are too numerous to be exhaustively tested. The strength of a carabiner in this case can be less than 30 % of the major axis strength. A pronounced cantilever load can also damage the supporting device or anchor. |
| 7. PRESSURE ON THE SLEEVE (RISK OF SLEEVE DAMAGE) |
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The locking sleeve is the weakest part of your carabiner. The European standards require a sleeve strength of 1 kN under external pressure (a value easily reached in the field). Certain standards require much higher strengths, for example 16 kN for the ANSI Z359.12 standard. |
| 8. RUBBING ON THE SLEEVE (RISK OF OPENING THE SLEEVE AND GATE) |
STRING, INSTALLATION AND PRECAUTIONS
Installation:
Function: Holding carabiners in position
A carabiner is strongest when loaded on its major axis, with the gate closed.
Loading a carabiner in any other way is dangerous.
Precautions: |
CARABINER COMPATIBILITY TEST
Any time equipment is to be used with a new carabiner, a compatibility test is recommended.
Petzl does tests for Petzl products and carabiners; specific details on compatibility are mentioned in the Instructions for Use for the devices.
- Verify that the chosen carabiner is suitable for the intended use
- Verify that the carabiner's cross-section is suitable
- Check that the carabiner does not jam in the device's attachment hole
- Assess the possibility of the carabiner getting into a bad position and the stability of this bad position
- Check the risk of interference between the elements of the system and the carabiner sleeve
Note: For devices fitted with a flexible carabiner positioning piece (ZIGZAG, PIRANA...) repeat the compatibility test whenever you install a new carabiner. The flexible piece may have been deformed by the last carabiner, and may not correctly position the new one.
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